It’s not the Camera, it’s YOU!!!: Beginner Photography Tip

by Staff December 27, 2016 at 12:11 pm

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8 Comments

  1. Totally agree, far too many people are afraid to set the thing in manual and then moan about the results when the camera gets it wrong. Manual is even easier with the Fuji system as you can see what you are going to get before you press the shutter release.

  2. As harsh as it sounds it does make me giggle about to hear people complaining about auto anything. Many of us fujians cut our teeth pre digital on full manual cameras. The biggest appeal for me is the more traditional control scheme and getting back to roots with sense of creative power that goes along with it. Auto modes can be really helpful for somethings for sure especially when you're pressed for time. In terms of shooting experience however when I strip all that away flooding straight back comes that reminiscent feeling of using my old Minolta. Can't beat it.

  3. Assuming someone understands basic speed/aperture reciprocity, and isn't shooting everything at f22 sending the ISO rocketing, I'd advise that the higher the contrast, the more the need for careful exposure. In flat, "English" light, meters cope remarkably well, it's when the sun comes out that the photographer has to intervene.

    It doesn't matter how the user does this (Fuji have a handy override wheel next to your right thumb), but digital responds much like slide film and it's easy to blow the highlights out. While I use (A)perture priority if things are dull, the fastest way to a good sunny exposure is to manually meter for the highlights and only change things when the light changes. If you're bothered about your exposure and don't default to fix-it-in-post, or use jpeg, manual is also quickest and most reliable IME.

  4. totally agree.

    however, I have a fuji x-pro2.

    I have shot primarily with aperture priority and left both shutter and iso to A.

    In the menus, you can set up to 3 auto iso settings to confine the automatic settings to only work within certain parameters.. for example ISO 200-1600 with a minimal shutter speed of 1/500th or ISO 800-6400 with a minimal shutter speed of 1/60, etc.. assuming you can do this with the other Fuji X cameras as well..

    However, from my experience, the set parameters for semi-automatic exposure is not necessarily true. I have found if the camera cannot achieve a proper exposure within the parameters you've set for a particular Auto ISO setting, it will ignore it and set the camera accordingly.

    For example. say I'm working at night time, but I really want to try and keep my ISO as low as possible and is set to work between ISO 800-3200 and my minimal shutter speed for that is set to 1/60th.

    I am shooting wide open at f/2 (max for a f/2 lens).. IF the scene is really THAT DARK to shoot camera at f/2 and automatically setting ISO to my max of 3200 AND 1/60th still causes underexposure, it will override my 1/60th and set it any shutter speed low enough below 1/60 to get the proper exposure.. say maybe 1/8th. If I'm not paying attention to the info in my viewfinder (or the rear screen) across the bottom (which shows exposure settings) , I may take a shot and get a blurry image because I did not realize the camera actually set my shutter exposure below my minimal shutter speed to get the proper exposure..

    IDK?.. I mean would it be better to walk away with a blurry image or would it be better if I am not able to even take the photo because the scene does not conform to within my minimal auto settings, thus locking me out of taking the shot?

    A bit of a hard one to answer, as there really is no good solution here other than to be aware of the situation and make sure before you jump on the shutter button before you know what the camera is capable of or not.

    Still, what is the point of being able to set these exposure parameters if the camera just overrides them anyways? IDK, does not make sense to me if you cannot depend on the control you set in the camera if it does not follow it all the time.

    It kind of sucks it does not absolutely conform to my automatic settings and limitations. I suppose it comes down to exercising good photographic practice with intuitive muscle and mental memory to quickly hit certain check boxes so that you are aware when that happens.

    I think I have a rare and extreme example.. if I'm going to shoot in such dark situations, I really should add a flash or some light.. still, I think the POV is still valid.

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